Hand Feeding It isn't that hard, actually. I have been amazed with each chick that I have taken from the nest because after the first feeding, with an appropriate size syringe, the chick knows exactly what to do. He opens his mouth and takes all you can give him and YOU are now Mamma. When you take the chick from the nest, you will want to keep him in a warm, clean, and safe environment. We have used a 10 gal. aquarium with a 40 or 60 walt light bulb. More recently we have begun using plastic storage containers which lids that latch on. We get them at Walmart. We put holes in the top and sides for ventilation and for a place for the light bulb to go. They are light weight and portable. We keep a themometer in them and keep the heat adjusted to about 82 to 88 degrees. You can regulate the temperature by opening a large hole in the top-either one that has been covered by something as simple as tape or a wash cloth. We place the chick, or chicks, in a plastic container-a margarine tub is perfect, and line it with tissue paper that is replaced with each feeding. As the chicks get older, they can be removed from their little margarine bowl. When they need to be up off their dirt, my husband made a frame that just fits in the bottom of the brooders and is covered with chicken wire. This way their waste falls through and they are kept clean. You will want to place the chick on a firm surface and gentle cradle his body in your hand at feeding time. You might want to set him on a towel so he doesn't slip. You may want to gentle support his head between you thumb and index finger especially as he gets older and begins jumping with enthusiasm at meal time. As you inject the pre-made baby-bird formula into his mouth, you will see that his crop is filling up. You will know that he is full when his crop is nicely rounded. Baby bird formula can be found in most pet stores.
It is a simply process and can take only minutes. The formula can be mixed with hot water and will be just about the right temperture, but always stir it thoroughly and test it so that your chick will not be burned. A burned crop most often means death. I pre-mix a feeding or two and heat it in the microwave for 5-7 seconds, always stirring thoroughly and testing it with my finger before feeding and have never had any trouble, though most experts do not recommend storing pre-mixed food.. Feeding Schedule At 1-2 days old feeding every 2 hours around the clock is neccessary so that the chick does not dehydrate. At this time they are taking very small amounts-a drop or two will fill them up, and the formula is very watery. I personally wait until the chicks are about a week old before taking them, but at times it is neccessary to take them earlier. At 3 to 14 days the chick should be fed every 2-3 hours between 6am and 12pm and as the days pass, you will begin to thicken the formula. At 2-3 weeks, the chick's eyes are opening and they are able to take more food and should be fed every 2-4 hours between 6am and 12pm. At 3-4 weeks you should feed the chick every 4-5 hours and at this time you can adjust the time to between 7am and 10pm. At 5-6 weeks, you should feed the chick 3-4 times a day and begin introducing foods such as fresh fruits and vegetables. At 7 weeks until completely wean, feed the chick in the morning and at night. The chick will refuse hand feeding at some point, but don't be surprised if you find a chick here and there that requires hand feeding a little longer than the others. I once lost a chick because I believed he should be completely weaned. Although he was eating on his own, he was not drinking. I have read literature saying that prolonged hand feeding can produce an obese bird, but the only negative experience I have had has been the loss of this chick who wasn't ready to be weaned. My opinion is that if he is asking to be fed {hand feeding} feed him! {Larger Birds will take longer to wean, so you will want to adjust the weaning time to accomodate their needs. Such as; Conures will take about two weeks longer}At times mishaps come up, but it is a relatively easy process. I had one chick who was injured shortly after being hatched. I don't know if the parents accidently stabbed her with their toenails, or if another bird got into the nest and bit her. But she had a head wound that would have killed a human. But, with a little TLC she was fine. This same chick, later, at 3 weeks of age was feeding with so much enthusiasm that she choked and passed out. I had to do birdie C.P.R. I held her upside down like a salt shaker and shook her gently and then blew lightly in her face until she began screaming for more food. The very next day, she jumped out of my hand and into the toilet bowl with wings outspread, she floated. We named her Boomerang because she kept leaping into the jaws of death only to return. Incidently, she grew up to be a healthly, happy bird with a loving owner. Things happen, but these fragile looking little creatures are actually very hardy. There are things that can go wrong, and this would be why breeders will not sell an out of the nest/unweaned chick to inexperienced people. I personally learned by helping a friend hand feed her flock for some time before doing it myself.
Some things that can go wrong are:
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